Surfing in Byron Bay

That’s it, it’s over! No more alarm at 5:00 am, no more waste of time to be in the field to collect fruits and vegetables, no more hours to think, think, think and still think again. I think that within these 92 days of farming, I thought of all of which it was possible to think. I went through all the possible psychological phases. I hated it, but in the end, I loved it. From now on, I know the hard labor necessary to make these products arrive up to our plates. It was a beautiful lesson of humility.

Then now, let the amusement begin! For it, I chose Byron Bay, stage number 7 of my road-trip from West to East. Why Byron Bay? It is simple, there is some surfing and all the people who went there told me that they loved it. Then, after a quick visit given to the Stephenson family (cf. article How I met… the Stephenson family), I make it to this place which is supposed to make me happy.

From my arrival, I am not disappointed. My buddy Josh, who I met in Margaret River, waits for me over there. The first thing he tells me: “Man, the surfing it is the fire here!”. I feel that I am going to have a blast. I find a board and jump in the water. Broken Head first of all, then Tallow Beach and Lennox Head, Boulder Head then.

I surfed over there for 3 weeks. Unfortunately, it was not 3 complete weeks because I poked my board twice. Once because some rocks hit the bottom of it, and another time because I gave a high-powered knee on the top. Nevertheless, the surfing is super good. Below I share with you what the experience inspired me 🙂

Surfing in Byron Bay


The poem

I cannot wait anymore,

One month that I was deprived of it,

To harvest,

I would have almost forgotten the pleasure,

From my arrived, I bustle,

To dive back into it to slide,

This is my exclusive obsession,

Then I look,

The board which will carry me will have to be as I want it,

Then I look,

The board which I find seems to be as I want it,

I go to the beach which broke more than one,

I just want to slide again,

The water, warm, rush into my wetsuit,

I find the sensation which I had left for a long time ago,

The body movements are rusty,

While rowing,

I feel nevertheless that the motion is not so far to live again in me,

That’s it, I am exactly back where I want to be,

Before throwing myself in,

I take a moment to observe around me,

This activity,

I realize little by little,

That it could be the one that I want to place at the center of my life.


To see the other articles about my adventures in Australia, click here.

Stay connected, the next article arrives very soon!


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